Short Notes
I haven’t traveled anywhere for five years. First Covid, then my mother’s illness. And then my mother passed away.
She always said how sad she was because, according to her, I wasn’t traveling anywhere because of her. So I explained to her that my presence with her was my decision. No one forced me to stand by her side and help her in her old age. She didn’t quite believe me.
And now that she’s gone, I decided to travel to Istanbul. For my mother’s sake and for me to relax and forget about my sadness.
To Istanbul, because I’ve been there many times before and for my first trip I chose something I know and feel safe about.
But on the first morning at the airport, I realized how out of practice and confused I am. Of course, I forgot to hand over my cell phone at the check-in. And my wallet and change in my pocket. And an excessive dose of deodorant in my suitcase. After a few checks, I managed to get in. At least I checked in and received my boarding pass the day before.
It went faster in Istanbul, because I’m a fast learner. And because I only had cabin luggage.
After five years, everything seemed different to me. And I wandered around the airport for quite some time until I found a bus stop. I want to recharged my old Istanbulcard, but it turns out that it is invalid after so many years. So I buy a new one. Of course, I have to change some money first. For 50 euros I get 1500 Turkish liras. Later in the city for the same amount I get 2000 TL. The first shock.
I take the bus to Taksim. The hotel is about five hundred meters away. Ten minutes walk on a hot and humid afternoon.
Everything is fine, the room is waiting for me. The receptionist takes my suitcase to the room, fifth floor, street side. He shows me the bathroom, toilet, TV, empty fridge, wi-fi. He stands by the door and looks up at the ceiling somewhere. Oh, of course, I almost forgot, the tip.
I go to my old pub, two blocks away. Efes beer is calming.
When I wake up the next morning, it’s raining outside. I just turned around and sleep on. I’ve already seen all the sights, I’m not interested in markets and shopping malls, so I can afford to completely disconnect.
Around noon, I went to Taksim and to Hafiz 1864. I always stop here early (!) in the morning for coffee. If I feel like it, I treat myself to a cup of pudding. Today it was profiterole, the chocolate version.
The light rain doesn’t let up, the wind is getting stronger.
I hide under my blanket, cold and soaked.
On Wednesday morning, finally the sun. After the obligatory morning Turkish coffee, I walk to Ortaköy Mosque. Another one of my favorite stops. Since it is more than five kilometers one way, I decide to go back by city bus. There is no sign at the bus station which bus I need to take to get to Taksim. And this is where the kindness of the locals shows. When I ask the first person next to me for the number of the bus, he said, come with me, I’m going there too.
Later I quickly pass by the Spice and Grand Bazaar and night falls.
Late in the evening, as I pass Taksim Square, I notice that the square is surrounded by a police security fence. What is happening?
The next day I learn that the mayor of Istanbul, Ekrem İmamoğlu, has been arrested. But that is another story.
Thursday morning, snow! Frost, wind, snowflakes mixed with rain. Istiklal Street is full of police, some armed with automatic rifles.
I stoped at a nice restaurant where I had been five years ago. I order Çoban kavurma, a simple Turkish dish made with lamb meat, onion, tomatoes, peppers and spices. The dish literally boils in a clay pot. Satiated and satisfied, I went for a beer in an Irish bar.
Friday is also a bit sunny. I take the opportunity to once again visit the Süleymaniye Mosque and Şehzade Mosque, two architectural gems by the exceptional architect Sinan. At the corner of the stone fence next to Şehzade Mosque stands a column made of green marble, porphyry, which is said to be the center of Istanbul. According to legend, this is where the center of the old city was marked in the Byzantine era.
Not far away is the University. In front of it is a square, with police on it, a water cannon and demonstrators not far away. Not a pleasant atmosphere.
This time, for dinner, I asked for Adana kebab, a dish that consists of long, hand-minced meat, mounted on a wide iron skewer and grilled on an open mangal filled with burning charcoal.
Saturday morning, preparations for departure. Another quick hop to the still fenced-off Taksim.
Stray cats everywhere, another characteristic of Istanbul. According to some estimates, there are up to a million of them. You can see food and water bowls everywhere that the locals set out for the cats.
With a wild taxi ride to the airport, I say goodbye to Istanbul.
I make it through three checkpoints, onto the plane and the flight to Ljubljana.
Home, sweet home …