My friend tells me that I know how to choose my timing.
After five years, I return to Istanbul. And immediately protests.
OK, not because of me, I am just a calm observer of events. Well, the internal affairs of Turkey.
So, on Tuesday evening, March 18, I walk to Taksim Square. I want to take a photo of the Ataturk Monument, in the middle of the square. But look, the square is surrounded by police security fences. Full of police, police cars with lights on, parked not far away.
I don’t understand anything.
The next morning, I learn that the police have arrested Istanbul Mayor Ekrem İmamoğlu. He was arrested on corruption charges, with the State-run Anadolu Agency claiming İmamoğlu was suspected of extortion, money laundering, irregularities concerning tenders and procurements and aiding the outlawed Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK).
Quite a collection of accusations.
This terminated his ongoing mayoralty of Istanbul and prompted Istanbul University to invalidate İmamoğlu’s diplomas, effectively disqualifying him from running for president.
Late in the afternoon, the internet is already blocked. Social networks, Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, TikTok… are not working, simply in order to prevent the spread of information among people.
In the evening, the famous Istiklal Avenue is still full of people, as well as police and police cars. Police in full combat gear, some with automatic rifles pointed downwards.
On Thursday morning, it is snowing lightly. After a restless night, the situation seems to have calmed down for a moment. There are fewer police on the streets. Trade is going on as usual in the Grand Bazaar. Fishermen are fishing on the Galata Bridge. Only the restaurants are empty, it is Ramadan…
Information is spreading about more arrests. It is said that the police have detained some who published content on the internet that they considered hostile to the authorities.
On the evening, a fire began at an electrical substation in Hayes, Hillingdon, London, leading to the closure of Heathrow Airport.
On Friday I head towards the Şehzade Mosque. On the way there I cross the square in front of the university. Unusually empty. There are only two buses on it with the words Police and a water cannon. A little further on, a dozen or so policemen appear from a side street. Immediately behind them are a crowd of protesters, with red banners, shouting slogans. On the side streets, special police unit, waiting in ambush.
I secretly take a few photos with my mobile phone and carefully retreat.
The atmosphere is becoming depressing.
With the airport in London closed, chaos and panic are arising at airports all over Europe. No information about what is happening at Istanbul International Airport.
Somehow I manage to get through the blockade on the internet and check in for a flight to Ljubljana on Saturday afternoon.
On Saturday morning, I quickly take a look at a few spots in the historical part of Istanbul. One last coffee at Hafiz.
Since some roads are closed due to protests, I decide to go to the airport by taxi.
The taxi driver drives quite adrenaline-fueled. At a speed of 130 km, he drives right behind the van in front of him. He overtakes on the left, if necessary on the right.
Police check, they want to know what’s in the trunk. I forget that I have sunglasses on my nose. The policeman growls, I quickly take them off and then we can drive on.
The airport is apparently operating normally. Triple check. Since I have a fast track ticket, I board first.
After all the ups and downs, I’m finally home late in the evening.
Ekrem İmamoğlu (born 4 June 1970) is a Turkish politician and businessman who serves as the 32nd Mayor of Istanbul since 2019. He is currently suspended from office temporarily. He is the Republican People’s Party (CHP) candidate for the 2028 Turkish presidential election.
Recep Tayyip Erdoğan (born 26 February 1954) is a Turkish politician who is the 12th and current president of Turkey since 2014. He previously served as the 25th prime minister from 2003 to 2014 as part of the Justice and Development Party (AKP), which he co-founded in 2001. He also served as mayor of Istanbul from 1994 to 1998.